T is for Tempranillo

Tempranillo is the chief component of Rioja, and Ireland drinks more Rioja per capita than anywhere in the world - fair to say Temp. may be our favourite Red Grape. This A to Z 6-Pack demonstrates the majesty of Spain's noble red. Tempranillo means little early one, because it ripens early, making it a prolific blending component. 80% of the world's Tempranillo is found in Spain, with Portugal (where it is known as Tinta Roriz) contributing significant enough plantings, with some outlying new world plantings making up the rest.

As well as being a versatile blending partner, Tempranillo takes to oak like an absolute dream. In La Rioja, it is partnered with Garnacha, Graciano and some white varieties. Traditionally it has been built to age, with a system of age classification attached to let consumers know how long it has been kept. Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva with be familiar terms. Old school Rioja will be aged before release and has an orange tinge and some controlled and deliberate oxidation. This method of age classification is starting to dwindle in importance in the modern paradigm and a (wine maker lead) campaign has produced a new geographical classification to be used alongside the age classification. Wine making legeds Telmo Rodriguez & Alvaro Palacios spearheaded this campaign of revolution and evolution. (To go deeper specifically on Rioja, check out our Rioja Wine School pack below).

"wine making legeds Telmo Rodriguez & Alvaro Palacios spearheaded this campaign of revolution and evolution"

What does it taste like? Unlike Syrah or Malbec, which have already had their own A to Z of Wine focus and sit on the black fruit spectrum, Tempranillo is firmly on the red fruit spectrum. Red cherry is the abiding charcter, but there is a lovely bang of wild strawberry, developing to fig and pomegranite. There is generally a good whiff of herb and even some leather and tobacco. The grape is very dry and is decidely medium in all of its stuctural elements; alcohol, acidity, tannin and body. It will pair with an incredible range of dishes depending on how it is made.

La Rioja is one of, if not the oldest commerial style of wine in the world. When phylloxera hit (the disease that ravaged European vineyards) France, winemakers there struck out to find new pastures, landing in Rioja. There, they brought their oak focused wine making methods and as they did with Bordeaux, hooked the Brits - the empire loved Rioja! Much more recent, is Tempranillos 'other' ground zero; Ribra del Duero. Only recognised in 1982 (though monks have made wine there since the 12th century), this area refers to Tempranillo as Tinta Pais, and it's reds are generally 100% Tempranillo. Ribera Tempranillo gives a more robust, minerally and acidic iteration of the variety, producing robust, showy wines that are generally augmented by a healthy regime of oak ageing. The area was made famous by the epic wines of Vega Sicilia.

Starting off with an unbridled Joven (young) style is Iselen Tinto. Classic Temp. with lashings of red fruits, ruby colour and silky tannins - this is just dynamite drinkin! The Crianza, Reserva etcetera classification of ageing is what a lot of us in Ireland look for, and we have a couple of beautiful Crianza, meaning they've been aged a minimum of 2 years before release. Letargo Crianza and Aradon Crianza are both classically focused Rioja reds with a good lick of integrated oak and some of that deliberate oxidatative charcter, but not much. Deep colour and deep kick fruit personify these wines more than the oak - fun to open 'em together!!

We got a couple of curve balls too! El Mozo Herrigoia is a new-wave Rioja N Roller in that it is made with Tempranillo and white varieties via carbonic maceration, the natural wine making method used in Beaujolais. It is bright and juicy but with some tannic heft. (Funny enough this is how Rioja was made before the advent of commercial Rioja as we know it). Perro Gato Raton is grown in Ribera del Duero but is outside the appellation rules in that they've included some white Abillo and Garnacha - this is a super interesting take - an almost tangy wine with loads of racy acidity and charcter.

Finishing with a bona fide Ribera del Duero where wines must be 100% Tempranillo, one our fave wines of the year: Arrocal Roble. Riberas are big and bold, but the best examples offer loads of freshness, giving them elegance. This is a case in point - an iron fist in a velvet glove indeed! STSWine