S is for Syrah
As with our focus on Life After Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, In Defence of Merlot & (ABC) Awesome bloody Chardonnay, the latest in our A to Z of Wine series focuses on another unlikely underdog; SYRAH! The path to underdog status for this majestic red grape has been very different to the aforementioned given that it has enjoyed long spells as the Top Dog. our SUPER SYRAH 6-PACK contains 6 wines from old world and new world, thoroughbred and blended, and it demonstrates we think, that this grape is due a return. |
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Let's start with the basics. Syrah's spiritual home is France, specifically the Rhone Valley. Split in two, the Southern Rhone is responsible for blends, led by Grenache with Syrah and a galaxy of other permitted varieties - the famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape has 18 permitted varieties (and some houses use them all in the one cuvee). The volume from this area is huge, with the Cotes-du-Rhone appellation responsible for most of it. The Northern Rhone is responsible for way less wine by volume but way more Syrah as a percentage because many of the appellations must be 100% Syrah. |
"Ostensibly this soldier did so to live in solitude with the shame he carried from the crusades, probably though it was just to grow and drink Syrah in peace" |
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The Hill of Hermitage is the birthplace of Syrah and one of the most famous wine pilgrimages amongst wine geeks in the world. Legend has it that a soldier wandered up the hill and never came back down, becoming a hermit. Ostensibly this soldier did so to live in solitude with the shame he carried from the crusades, probably though, it was just to grow and drink Syrah in peace, and the French have never been good at sharing! Hermitage must be 100% Syrah, as does Cornas and St. Joseph, with Crozes Hermitage allowing some rarely used Marsanne and Rousanne whites in the reds, while the famous Cote Rotie appellation allows Viognier in its reds. The are a few areas that grow white, most famously Condrieu which utilises Viognier, but the Northern Rhone is red country though really. It is famous for a unique smokey bacon character in it's wines. |
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Syrah is full bodied, highly structured and dry. Dark blue and black fruit predominate, and it is known for its peppery character. There are notes and flavours of chocolate spice and leather. This is the ultimate sit by the fire wine, they are generally concentrated and long and are effectively the wine equivalent of wrapping up in a duvet. Awesome with protein and braises, it especially comes into its own with some spice in the meal, as this further coaxes out the dark blue fruit. So all that being considered - why is this grape unfashionable? Is fashion rational? This grape sorely deserves a renaissance, and short of having it appear in a Quentin Tarantino movie, the best way to help is by making up a Syrah 6-Pack to die for. |
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The Last Stand Shiraz is a cool climate example from Heathcote in Victoria, Australia. (Shiraz is just the Aussie version of Syrah, they do it with everything - used to call me Rozza or Craigaz when I lived there). Montfrin Cotes-du-Rhone is the classic Syrah blend from the Southern Rhone with some Grenache in the blend. Petit Colorado Syrah is a flambouyant unfiltered number and one of France's first ever oraganic wines from parcels dotted around the Northern Rhone. Cecillon 'Les Graviers' Syrah is a stunning and authentic 100% Northern Rhone Syrah. The stylish Domaine des Amiel 'a Peissou' is low sulphur Syrah from the Languedoc. Ghostwriter Syrah is from Santa Cruz in California, made at the world's first carbon neutral winery by Kenny Likitaprakong, it is a low alcohol example with waves of fresh acidity and is uber stylish Cali. Syrah. |