Mauro Veglio

(To get a printable version of Barolo Wine School including the story of our very own Mauro Veglio click HERE)

MAURO VEGLIO

You drive down the dusty laneway in Cascina Nouva to find the house and winery offer a panoramic view of the Aborina vineyard, with the town of La Morra in behind it. There is another house at the end of the drive, that of the legendary modernist producer Elio Altare, I wonder briefly is he in the house but then remember who I'm here for, the main event - Mauro Veglio, a producer whose wines I've sold for several years in Australia. A producer that gave me an awakening moment with Nebbiolo, the variety used in Italy's King of Wines, Barolo.

A FAMILY AFFAIR

It’s a family affair at Mauro Veglio. They have worked the land in La Morra since the early 1900’s, producing crops, livestocks. In the winter they produced salami and other meats. In 1960, Mauro’s father bought the family’s first vineyard holdings of Gattera and began producing wines before buying a little shack called Casina Nuova and a plot of land in Annunziata about 5ha that encompassed Aborina and Rocche dell Annunziata - an outrageously astute purchase.

After sadly falling ill and passing away, Angelo’s son Mauro took over the estate and became the protege of the already famous Elio Altare (arguably at the time, Barolo’s most famous producer). Young and inexperienced, but not lacking in natural talent and drive, Mauro restored the vineyards and rejuvinated the tired old farmhouse. He married Daniela and a formidable husband and wife operation began. Mauro relatively quickly established himself as one of the region’s best growers and then in ’92, with the support of his famous neighbour, began to make his own wine, under his own name. Considered a modernist, Mauro enjoyed a quarter of a century of success.

In 2016, Mauro (he and Daniela childless) invited his hugely talented wine maker nephew Alessandro to become a partner, and join their holdings. The younger of the pair, Alessandro paradoxically has brought a more traditional approach to the wine making, retaining the pliant house style but dialling back the oak and achieving a more pure style, which in turn better complements the pristine fruit that his master grower uncle can produce. The partnership has been very happy and very harmonious. The day I visit, there are dozens of Veglio’s of all ages from toddler to Mamo milling about the place.

You can really see the fruits of the partnership now. Mauro and Daniela are consumate growers, and now we are seeing this talent mesh with Alessandro's rather alternative methods in the winery. All roto fermenters have been sold, it's all vertical fermentation with a longer time on skins. Oak use has now been dialled back as much as possible to achieve total purity.

2025 sees the last release of their Dolcetto unfortunately, Dolcetto just doesn’t seem to have a place anymore. They make a Barbera d’Alba and an ultra premium version called Cascina Nouva, named after the farmhouse. They make a stunning Langhe Nebbiolo called Angelo named after Mauro’s father, it comes from declassified and younger Barolo vines from their best holdings.

The DOCG Barolo comes from their best parcels around the Barolo region drawing from the communes of Barolo, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba. it is pliant and pure - an ultra drinkable entry level offering.

Barolo del Commune Serralunga d’Alba is in it’s third vintage in 2021. Serralunga is typically the most robust and muscular of the communes of Barolo, but Alessandro in his expression manages to impart his signature stylish and lacey eelegance whilst retaining power. Plot is just above the famed Giacosa Falleto.

Castelletto, named for the iconic castle that personifies the region, and sits above the vineyard is Centered on Monforte d’Alba. Darker tones, minerality and depth.

Aborina is found on the doorstep of the farmhouse, smack bang in the middle of La Morra, a region famous for its perfumed, pretty Baroli. 25 days on skins with 20% new oak to give it a modern edge.



Don't take me word for it! Ask the professionals:

Grace, elegance and understatement are some of the qualities readers will find in the 2020 Barolos. The best wines are undeniably striking…Starting with the positive, the best 2020 Barolos offer exquisite balance, tons of class and plenty of up-front appeal. In the previous generation, a forward vintage often meant soft, fruity wines. In 2020, however, those qualities come through in mid-weight wines endowed with gorgeous translucence and plenty of classicism. ANTONIO GALLONI

The resulting wines offer a tannin structure similar to 2018, though with more depth and ripeness of fruit. The wines are balanced and immediate but have good structure, freshness, and generosity. There is a lot of promise for the Barolo selections that were tasted from barrel in March of 2023, with the potential to exceed many of the 2019s in terms of their balance. AUDREY FRICKE



2021 releases:

Mauro Veglio continues to impress. Today, the wines are made with more measured approach to farming, especially with regards to green harvesting. Gentler winemaking and an overall move towards greater nuance in the wines is evident. 

I can't really share how dear these wines are me - they gave me my Nebbiolo & Barolo awakening, and it's been amazing to see them grow and evolve, now we are exciting about conveying them to the Irish market.

Ciao, Rory