California Zin & Grill!

Hailed as California’s heritage grape, Zinfandel (pronounced (zin-fan-del) is a singularly American phenomenon. Given that it is not as popular as Cabernet Sauvignon, a surprising number of wine drinkers claim that the first bottle of California wine they ever tried was a Zinfandel. Equally surprising: many failed to register that it is, in fact, a red wine, as they are familiar only with the blush version known as white Zinfandel.


 
The beloved grape has a history of moving in and out of fashion, which creates a quandary for producers, who must decide whether to commit the time, energy, winery space, and financial resources required to make a good Zinfandel. California’s signature variety has had all sorts of historical ups and downs and is made in numerous styles and interpretations. This wide range of styles may be the reason why it's remained an object of veneration for some and completely puzzling to others. Quietly, the grape is the state’s second most widely crushed red after Cabernet Sauvignon, besting both Pinot Noir and Merlot in terms of wine produced, while ranking third in acreage after Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, respectively. Across the board, California Zinfandel has never been better: the wines are of high quality, unique in provenance, and prices remain reasonable compared to other varieties. In this author’s opinion, there is no other grape in California that expresses its terroir, its sense of place, more than Zinfandel.

HISTORY

Although Zinfandel has made its reputation in the USA, and specifically California, the variety -- like many Americans! -- is an immigrant. And as with other grapes, Zinfandel's origins have been the subject of lively discussion that now and again has turned argumentative. Prior to its study, Zinfandel was known as California’s mystery grape. Rooted in Europe, its origins are now confirmed as being from the Old World: It’s genetically identical to both Italy’s Primitivo and Croatia’s Tribidrag (its moniker in southern Dalmatia), and is also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski, after a Croatian town called Kaštel Novi, near Split. The name Crljenak Kaštelanski aptly translates to “the red from Kaštela.” Regardless of synonym, the variety was later confirmed to be “The Original Zinfandel.” Cited as early as the 15th century, the name Tribidrag indeed predates the other names. From a consumer’s perspective, Tribidrag is easier to pronounce and remember than Crljenak Kaštelanski, however do not expect to see either term used on wine labels anytime soon.

Notwithstanding its mysterious origins, most wine aficionados concur that no other part of the world produces Zinfandels of the consistent high caliber found in California. In fact, that belief, in concert with Zinfandel being one of the first grapes to be planted in any quantity in the Golden State, led many a wine drinker to assume that the variety is native to California. We now know that is not the case. 

In California, Zinfandel has not only flourished, but is made in regional and diverse styles. First are wines that are grapey, fruit-packed, and juicy, much like a Beaujolais Nouveau in personality, with softer tannins and moderate alcohol. Then there are the “tweeners,” occupying the middle ground between the coarse, rustic charm of good old-fashioned Zinfandel and a refined Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot -- often referred to as “claret-style,” on account of the resemblance to a Bordeaux. These are typically medium- to full-bodied, with corresponding tannins. 

Finally, there are the original classic Zinfandels, which are monster trucks in a bottle! These are huge wines, rustic and minimally processed, generous in alcohol, and bursting with peppery, ripe, jammy and, occasionally, desiccated fruit. While not always complex per se, they provide great enjoyment, oozing with syrupy fruit and packed with flavor.  

ZIN AND GRILL MATCHING!

The style of Zinfandel is critical to matching it with food and depending on whether the selection of the wine or of the dish comes first, there are options galore! It is recommended to treat white Zinfandel as one would an off-dry white Riesling. This version of Zinfandel has less acidity and more alcohol, so adjust seasonings accordingly to create the best possible matches. Enjoy white Zinfandel with ketchup-slathered burgers, aromatic curries, spicy Asian fare, and sweet barbecue sauce. 

A nouveau-style (or “Beaujolais-style”) red Zinfandel will also go fine with burgers and barbecue, as well as prosciutto, sausages, and other charcuterie. Moderate levels of aromatic heat can be tempered by a succulent nouveau-style Zinfandel. In this case, chilling the Zinfandel to bring out the fruit flavors can be very enjoyable, especially in warmer weather. 

A more elegant, claret-style Zinfandel can be treated like a fruity Merlot or medium-weight Cabernet or Syrah. With pedal-to-the-metal monster Zinfandels, opt for dishes like rich pastas, hearty pizza, grilled sausages, stick-to the-ribs stews, and robust preparations of red meat or game. Chewy Zinfandel is not friendly with most fish or shellfish, although it can pair nicely with various styles of creamy and mature cheese—especially if you have a wine with ripe, concentrated fruit and an almost port-like sweetness. 

Speaking of sweet, Zinfandel's fruit-forward nature enables it to match with less sugary, gooey chocolate desserts and those that stress nuts and coconut. A rich, port-like Zinfandel and a plate of chocolate-covered almonds or coconut macaroons is heaven! Make certain, though, that any accompanying dessert is more bitter than sweet to really make the combination satisfying.  

The chart below is a recommended guide to some general pairing ideas for Zinfandel. There are no mandated rules. Feel free to be adventurous and creative, while being thoughtful and aware of the grape’s inherent personality. 

Pairing Pointers